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March 08 Conditions

 Full winter conditions
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Saturday 29th March 2008

Martyn and James with the Curtain behind

I was out with Martyn and James today on Ben Nevis. We climbed the South West Ridge on the Douglas Boulder which has some great mixed climbing above the West Gully.

There were queues for the Curtain which looked good and we saw 2 parties backing off Tower Ridge in the heavy snow conditions.

When the predicted front arrived in the afternoon it was snowing down to 500m with a strong SW wind.
I was working for Highland Guides today.
James on the SW Ridge Martyn and James at the top of the Douglas Boulder

Thursday 27th March 2008
Coireag Dubh Beag, Liathach Mike approaching Poachers Fall in Coireag Dubh Mor

Another amazing day in the NW Highlands. Mike wanted a "classic Scottish grade 5 day out" so we headed into Liathach to do Poachers Fall.

This 4 star grade 5 climbs the obvious ice fall in the centre of the Coire Dubh Mor.

With good ice, no queues, great views, blue sky, sunshine, cool temperatures and no wind, it really was a perfect day on the hill.
Mike on Poachers Fall Mike topping out on Poachers Fall

Wednesday 26th March 2008
Coire na Poite with a very thin looking Silver Tear Coire nan Fhamair
Alex on the exposed mantel on pitch 3

Martin, Alex and I had a awesome day today on Beinn Bhan. We climbed the deep overhanging chimney on the leftside of Coire nan Fhamair. Genesis (VII,7) takes an incredible line up this improbable looking chasm.

The coire was unusually busy with a team trying, but backing off a thin looking Der Riesenwand, and Dave and Guy did a new route which starts up Gully of the Gods and then takes a line to the left of The Godfather.
Genesis Martin on pitch 2

Monday 24th March 2008

Snow down to sea level across much of the highlands over night. The end of March is still very wintery.

Martin and I headed into Glas Tholl on An Teallach today. We climbed Haystack on the big wall overlooking Hayfork Gully.

With strong Northerly winds and a temperature on the crag of -6°C it was a wild day out. We descended Hayfork Gully which had some windslab and much wind scoured neve.
Martin on the easy ramp pitch of Haystack Major and Minor Ribs and the prongs of Glas Tholl

Sunday 23rd March 2008
Eigg and Rum from Ardnamurchan

Snow showers at sea level today across the Highlands. The temperature at sea level from Ardnamurchan to the Moray Firth was 5°C.

There was snow on the Rum Cuillin and Skye and a very cold blustery North wind.

Wednesday 19th March 2008

Awesome conditions on Lochnagar today. Well frozen turf, cold temperatures, light winds from the NW and even some views.

Gareth and I had a great time on Shadowlands. There was one other party out enjoying Eagle Ridge in solitude.

With more cold Northerlies and snow due over the weekend it looks like there'll be many more days like today.
Gareth with Black Spout in the background Top of Eagle ridge with party enroute

Tuesday 18th March 2008

Sunrise over Clach Glas and Blaven (photo by Mark Chadwick)

News just in from a wintery Skye. Mark and Simon did a full winter traverse of the skye Ridge yesterday in 14hrs.

Mark said there was excellent neve for much of the ridge and only a few snow showers mid morning.

It looks like the good winter conditions are going to continue to improve with the high pressure out west bringing cold Northerly winds and more snow showers.
Looking South towards the In Pinn (photo by Mark Chadwick) Mark and Simon on the Skye Ridge (photo by Mark Chadwick)

Monday 17th March 2008

Steve and Richard on the Laithach ridge

I was on Liathach today with Richard and Steve. We climbed Access Gully in Coireag Dubh Beag and then did the full traverse of the mountain.

We had sunshine and snow showers with a blustery Northerly breeze. The temperature on the tops was 2°C.

Gary said that George in Coireag Dubh Mhor (grade III) was very good and we saw a party on Footless Gully in Coireag Dubh Beag.

Over on Ben Nevis Gareth and Mike did Slav Route. They found the ice to be less than perfect.
I was working for Martin Moran today.
Access Gully in the back of Coire Dubh Beag Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg

Sunday 16th March 2008
Pete on the lower Crux A very snowy Hell's Lum
Nick on the upper crux pitch (Photo by Pete Macpherson)

Pete and I had a great day on Citadel on Shelterstone today. Gareth and Mike did the winter variation of Citadel while we did the original summer line.

This route follows the line of a summer VS and has some good hard climbing in an awesome situation right on the prow of Shelterstone.

There were North Easterly winds and heavy snow showers through the day. It was -2°C at 1100m.
Stag Rocks Pete higher on the route in a heavy snow shower
Nick on the chimney pitch (Photo by Pete Macpherson) Loch Avon

Friday 14th March 2008

Willie on the East Ridge

Loads of snow in the Central Highlands today. We started walking in snow at 300m but the temperatures soon rose with 2°C at 1000m.

Willie and I had a great day of winter mountaineering on the East Ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn.

We observed avalanche debris on SE facing slopes above 700m and there were massive cornices on the East side between the main summits.

We had some great views across to the Easains, the Grey Corries and Ben Alder.
Willie approaching the East Ridge Snow on the descent
Loch Treig, the Easains, and the Grey Corries

Thursday 13th March 2008

Willie descending from the summit of Aonach Mor

Willie and I were out on a very wintery Aonach Mor today. There was lots of fresh snow down to 500m.

We looked at ice axe arrest, use of ice axe and crampons and navigation while on the way to the summit.

There was loads of wind slab on the Easterly slopes and the freezing level dropped through the day from 1000m to 750m.
Willie heading up the Nid on Aoanch Mor Ice axe arrest

Saturday 8th March 2008

Ski lift banter

I had a weekend holiday from Scotland and headed to Norway.

Rachel, Andy, Amy and I headed to the Sirdal ski hill for the day.

Great skiing in deep fresh heavy snow and some wild wet weather very reminiscent of Scotland.

Tuesday 4th March 2008

Ben belaying on Beinn Bhan

It was a beautiful sunny day in the North West Highlands. Ben, Jim and I went up onto A Chioch on Beinn Bhan near Applecross.

Ben and Jim did some leading and we had excellent views towards Torridan.

We could see high cirrus cloud coming in from the West heralding the next front due to bring tomorrow's wild wet weather
Jim and Ben climbing on A Chioch

Monday 3rd March 2008

Clach Glas and Bla Bheinn

We had an awesome day on Skye today. I was out with Ben and Jim on a traverse of Clach Glas.

This Cuillin Outlier is similar in character to the main ridge but a bit smaller. The freezing level was down to 200m and we had snow showers during the day.

I was working for Martin Moran today.
Ben and Jim on the Summit of Clach Glas Skye Ridge from Clach Glas