February 10 Conditions

Sunday 28th February 2010

Winter skills in the Cairngorms

This weekend Paul and Mark were out working for me taking a group of students from Newcastle Uni Mountaineering Club. They looked at the basic skills needed for staying safe in the Scottish winter hills.

As expected they found a lot of fresh snow even down to low levels and much of this was wind blown.

There is no sign of any change away from the wintery weather as a low pressure over Scandinavia brings a northerly air flow to the UK.

Thursday 25th February 2010

All change in the north

After a long settled period of weather across northern Britain a low pressure from the south is bringing large amounts of snow to Scotland as it moves slowly north. This means that the large surface hoar crystals that have formed over the last few days will now be buried under the snow giving a weak layer in the snow pack. This will increase the avalanche risk significantly so be careful out there.

Here are a few photos from 3 teams who have been out earlier in the week enjoying climbing in the north west.

Duncan and Mark climbed Central Buttress on Beinn Eighe and said “What a truly fantastic route, a real climbing dream come true. Conditions were just stunning, blue skies and sunshine, great neve for most of the route and not to much challenging ice covered rock high up.”

Derek, Catrin and Di went into Beinn Bhan on Tuesday and climbed the first pitch of the Cooler before rejoining Silver Tear.

On the same mountain near Applecross James climbed March Hare's Gully (IV,4) which he said “is very good; 6 pitches of grade 4 interest. Enough ice but is getting climbed a lot so started to be chopped.”

Tuesday 23rd February 2010

Getting away from the crowds

At the moment climbing and skiing conditions are so good it really is time to avoid the crowds and explore further afield. That's what Di and Catrin did this weekend when they went ski touring into the Southern Cairngorms. They reported “Perfect skiing conditions in a very remote place.“

Yesterday, Mark, Dez and Dunc went climbing over in the Loch Avon basin. They climbed Sticil Face on Shelter Stone Crag. They said “The climbing was really good and just about every pitch had some good challenging climbing”

If you are up in Glencoe this evening and want to pop into the Clachaig Inn for a pint then don't forget you can hear me chatting about a few Scottish Winter Adventures tonight at 8pm. The M. C. of S. Winter Mountain Safety Lectures are free of charge.

Sunday 21st February 2010

More snow and ice

With the continuing cold easterly air stream across Scotland it looks good for both climbing and skiing across the highlands. There was sea ice on the coast today on the Beauly Firth.

Thanks to Mark and Des for the photos below from their day out today skiing in the Cairngorms. They reported “Great snow conditions, just stunning. Loads of folks out climbing, routes look good as long has someone else has cleared it for you!” They enjoyed the classic ski descents of Jacob's Ladder, Aladdin's Couloir and Sneachda's Point Five Gully.

Thursday 18th February 2010

Great skiing and climbing conditions

Reports have been coming in of great skiing conditions both in the East and the West after the fresh snow that has fallen over the last few days.

Rob also said today that the “North Buttress of Buachaille Etive Mor [was] in brilliant icy conditions, the best I have done the route in.”

Thanks to Ciaran for the photos below from his day out snowboarding on Cairngorm mountain.

Tuesday 16th February 2010

M.C. of S. Winter Lecture Series

If you are up in Glencoe this evening and want to pop into the Clachaig Inn for a pint then don't forget you can hear me chatting about a few Scottish Winter Adventures tonight at 8pm. The M. C. of S. Winter Mountain Safety Lectures are free of charge.

Sunday 14th February 2010

The weekend reports from East and West

Which was best? East or West? Rob was out with Jenny on the Cascade in the Cairngorms while Mark and Dez were enjoying Flake Route in Glencoe yesterday.

Rob reports:

“A few snaps from the Cascade, Stag Rocks today. Superb Ice Climbing. Quite comical folk wandering about in the corries looking for the base of routes in the clag. Plenty of teams not finding the Goat Track, not us of course, ahem! Various lines to do on the Cascade. We climbed the Right Hand line at very stiff grade V, it had not been climbed at all and is pretty steep and sustained, pumpy! ”

Mark reported:

“Best on the West. Just had a wicked weekend over in the west with Deziree, Church Door Buttress on Saturday sending Flake route right hand V-7. Good route great conditions. Then today was a quick hit up on Anoach Mor's East face, we managed Stirling Bridge VI-7, such a good route but short lived. Again good conditions and loads of gear.”

Saturday 13th February 2010

More snow in the North East Highlands

There were more snow showers today down to 200m in the North East highlands.

Di reported a quiet day out on Aonach Eagach in Glencoe yesterday. Thanks to her for the photo here which shows: “Aonach Eagach on Friday which was in brilliant condition.”

Friday 12th February 2010

Reports from the SW and NW highlands

Rob was out with Jenny on Beinn Udlaidh yesterday and sent this report:

“Good day, well sociable but not silly busy - as it will be at the weekend after folk read your blog! Quite a few lines to go at between III and V. Quartvein Scoop getting climbed by many parties. Peter Pan Direct good and Jenny's first Grade V. We also did Emerald eyes and South Gully of the Black Wall at about hard grade III. Real continental atmosphere - like Cogne but the coffee not so good!”

Paul was out on Wednesday with Dave and sent me this report from Beinn Dearg in the NW and the photos below:

“bottom ice pitch was long and steep but the rest wasn't formed. Some mixed climbing to top out. Another couple were there said Fenian Gully was ace, lots of Ice. Garry and Kath climbed Penguin Gully said small ice pitch but lots of snow climbing with hardly any belays! Ice Hose looks good as well. Lots of snow all over Northern Highlands, sugary snow above 800m or so, An Teallach looks buried lots of tops covered beautiful day.”

Thursday 11th February 2010

Fort William Mountain Festival

Today the Fort William Mountain Festival starts in Fort William.

Some highlights will be:

* Andy Kirkpatrick hosts the Extreme Night.
* Paul Diffley from Hot Aches screening Single Handed plus The Asgard Project on the Adventure Night.
* Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner celebrate Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith's incredible first ascents on Ben Nevis 50 years on with Jimmy Marshall himself.
* Best of Banff World Tour.

Tickets are on sale, buy yours now so you don't miss out!

Wednesday 10th February 2010

More photos from Creag Meagaidh

Rob reported continuing good conditions on Creag Meagaidh yesterday. Thanks to Rob and Jenny for this report and photos:

“Good day, lovely sunrise showing us just how wintery things are up here. Climbed South Pipe Direct in good leanish conditions. Superb cave belay and ice pitch to exit it. Teams on Smith's, South Post Direct, Last Post, Pumpkin and Staghorn Gully. BIG cornices over the right hand side of the Inner Corrie.”

Sunday 7th February 2010

Loads of ice (and climbers) on Creag Meagaidh

Di reported a busy day in Creag Meagaidh today. Thanks to her and Mike for the following report and photos:

“Today with Mike in Smith�s Gully. Last in the long line and folk also on Ritchie�s...Good ice although pretty kicked out in places and definitely started to feel a little bit soggy in the afternoon � drippy ice. Low cloud so never got a look see at the main corrie but the car park was definitely full.”

Wednesday 3rd February 2010

Conditions report from Glencoe

Thanks to Gaz for the following report from yesterday:

“I fair bit of snow fell overnight, just stopping early this morning. It went almost down to the road, with significant accumulations above 700m. Fortunately it was light and fluffy (must of been light winds overnight) so trailbreaking wasn't too arduous. We climbed Crest route today (V,6) which is an amazing route. Great steep and positive climbing with loads of gear. It took a bit of sweeping to find the cracks, but the snow was easily removed. To cap it off the clear skies gave stunning views when we topped out.”