February 13 Conditions

Wednesday 27th February 2013

Great day on Creag Meagaidh

Today Ian and I headed into Creag Meagaidh. We had hoped to do Smith's Gully but 3 teams were already heading up Raeburn's Gully in that direction. We left them to it and headed up to the Inner Coire.

We climbed South Pipe Direct which was good and were back in the coire by noon so after Ian opted for a rest in the sunshine I soloed The Pumpkin which was excellent if a little stepped out.
Diadem and The Wand were climbed today too. Yet another gorgeous day under this almost stationary high pressure system.

Tuesday 26th February 2013

Fabulous ice climbing in Lochaber

The last two days I have been out ice climbing with Ian. Yesterday we went up The Ben and after looking into Observatory Gully decided to avoid the crowds heading up to Point 5 and Orion Face area. We climbed Boomer's Requiem and had the route to ourselves apart from when Iain soloed past.

Today we decided on a shorter day and again aimed to avoid the crowds. We headed over to the North Face of Aonach Beag and climbed Stand and Deliver which was fantastic. Martin and Stuart climbed Royal Pardon and said it was great with enough ice to place screws.

Thursday 21st February 2013

Another awesome day in the highlands

Today Peter, Twm, David and I climbed Forcan Ridge in Glen Shiel. I have done this route many times but it's always enjoyable and even more so when the weather is perfect, like today.

There was a cool wind from the east but apart from that it was glorious with solid blue skies and 'wall to wall' sunshine.

Wednesday 20th February 2013

Warm and sunny at Ardheslaig today

Today we headed to Ardheslaig crag near Shieldaig on the Applecross peninsula. We had a pleasant day of climbing and abseiling.

It was warm and sunny and there was very little wind.

Tuesday 19th February 2013

Overnight expedition on An Teallach

Yesterday Twm, David, Peter and I headed into Coire Toll an Lochain on An Teallach. We had a perfect night for a camp out and a great day today for a traverse of the munros.

This morning we climbed Central Gully and then climbed over Sgurr Fiona and Bidean a' Ghlas Thuill before returning to the campsite. It was warm in the sun and with no wind it felt very pleasant.

Sunday 17th February 2013

Alpine conditions today on Fuar Tholl

I was out with Peter, Twm and David today in Glen Carron. It was warm, sunny and pleasant on Fuar Tholl

We headed up into the South East corrie and did some winter skills and ice axe arrest practice before climbing up Access Gully. Definitely a suncream and sunglasses day.

Friday 15th February 2013

Winter climbing week in the north west Highlands

Just back from a great week of winter climbing in the north west highlands with Simon and Keith. The first 3 days gave us great weather and even some sunshine. On day one we took a look at March Hare Gully on Beinn Bhan but after the first 20m it was incomplete so we opted for A Chioch ridge instead.

On the second day we headed into Sgorr Ruadh in Glen Carron where we climbed High Gully which was great especially topping out in sunshine.

Day three was the highlight of the week with an ascent of West Buttress on Beinn Eighe in alpine conditions. The snow on the ledges was helpful, the sun shone and the views where perfect.

The last 2 days the weather deteriorated so we headed to the dry tooling crag on Wednesday and had a wild day of climbing in Glen shiel on Thursday. We climbed Deception Chimney on Druim Shionnach at the east end of the South Cluanie Ridge.

Saturday 9th February 2013

Cairngorms today

I was out with the Highland Hillwalking club today. They wanted to do some winter skills. It was perfect conditions for teaching with very light winds, mild and good snow for learning winter skills.

We looked at movement skills, how to use an ice axe, ice axe arrest, cramponing, avalanche assessment, emergency shelters, and navigation.

After doing some skills we climbed Cairngorm and almost got above the cloud level. We had a occasional views into Coire an T-sneachda where it looked very busy.

Saturday 2nd February 2013

Ben Nevis

Yesterday Bruce and I headed into the north face of Ben Nevis. We had hoped to do Tower Ridge. When we finally got onto the ridge through all the snow we found more snow.

Even on the ridge there was loads of snow and lots of it was windslab. We decided to turn around and head down rather than continue wading.

It was cold in the north easterly wind and the temperature was around zero at 800m. The clouds occasionally cleared to give us a view of the very snowy buttresses.