January 10 Conditions

Sunday 24th January 2010

A busy day in the northern corries

Ed, Colin, Bart, Nick and myself headed into Coire an T-sneachda again today. It was a busy day in the corrie today with teams queuing on many routes.

Ed and I avoided the crowds by climbing the twin ribs which was a lot less buried than most other buttresses. We continued up Fiachaill Ridge and made a circuit of the corrie.

We were lucky enough to be on top when the clouds cleared and we had some fantastic views. There was a strong SE breeze which was moving a lot of snow around.

Saturday 23rd January 2010

Climbing in Coire an T-sneachda

I was out with Ed today in Coire an T-sneachda. It was Ed's first winter climb and we had a great time on Hidden Chimney on Mess of Pottage.

After the last few days of southerly winds there is plenty of snow around and the buttress routes are very snowy too. It was 0°C at about 800m and -2°C on top of Cairngorm.

Nick was out with Ed's friends Colin and Bart and they did the Direct start to Hidden Chimney. There was very low cloud and very little visiblilty today but with a light northerly breeze it didn't feel too cold .

Tuesday 19th January 2010

Finger's Ridge in Coire an T-sneachda

Today Raymond and I ventured into the Northern Corries. After the thaw and refreeze there is loads of good neve in the gullies and on the buttresses. We climbed Finger's Ridge with a detour into Broken Gully at the top. Thanks to Kev for doing a great job excavating the belays for us yesterday.

It was 0°C at the base of the crags and -2°C at the top. There was a strong blustery southerly breeze which is shifting snow onto northerly aspects.

Saturday 16th January 2010

Report from Torridon

Thanks to Garry for the following report and photo: “Hi Nick. Still stacks of snow in Torridon although probably thawing a bit low down at present. Had a particularly good day scrambling on the north ridge of Spidean a Choire Leith but couldn't see into the back of the northern corries for mist. Almost luge like bumslides exist in Coire Liath Mhor (550m vertical drop !) and in Coire nan Laogh. Cheers Garry ”

Here in Inverness today we had rain and the highest temperatures for several weeks. It reached 6° C at sea level today.

Friday 15th January 2010

M.C. of S. Winter Lecture Series and ice in the South West

Just a quick bit of promotion for the M. C. of S. Winter Lecture Series. These lectures will take place through January, February and March in 3 different locations across Scotland and they are free of charge. On the 16th and 23rd of Feb I'll be taking the lectures at the Clachaig Inn in Glencoe. If you want to hear about a few winter adventures after your day on the hill then please pop in for a pint.

Thanks to Lynda and Tristan for this report, and the photos below, from the ice in the South West Highlands: “We've managed to get out for a couple of days on the ice this week and thought you might be interested in some photies. Monday we did Eagle falls (III) above the Drovers Inn in Inverarnan. Today [Thursday] we snuck up a slightly moist Grey Mares' Tail in Moffat. Looks like it's on the way out with warmer temps forecast. Fab day though and only one other party there.“

Thursday 14th January 2010

Steall Falls and news from the North West

Today I was ice climbing with Raymond. It was raymond's first winter climb of the season and also a first for me. Ever since I moved to Scotland in '98 I have wanted to do Steall Falls. When I lived in Fort William for 4 years I made several drives up the Glen in thick snow only to find no ice on 'Steall'. Today I was able to enjoy this great low level ice route.

It was a few degrees above zero all day with gentle persistant snow. The ice is slowly melting and most teams opted for the far left slabs on the falls. It was still possible to cross the left hand stream of water and climb the central section but for how long I'm not sure especially with the rain forecast for the weekend.

Martin and Pete 'The S.R. Machine' have been busy in the North West climbing some fantastic new lines. Have a look at Martin's News Page to find out more and to read some great stories.

Tuesday 12th January 2010

Weekend Conditions and Photos

At the weekend I was out with Dave and Dan in the west doing a winter skills course. We used the head of the Allt a' Mhuilinn below the North Face of Ben Nevis and Coire nan Lochan in Glencoe as our venues. Walking into these was relatively easy compared to the east with well compacted snow on the main paths. We found many localised patches of windslab on most aspects. Other teams were out on Tower Ridge and Ledge Route. There is some good ice low down but not much high up. The buttress routes on the Ben and on Stob coire nan Lochan looked in good condition.

Steve and Philip were out with Nigel on an Alpha Mountaineering winter climbing course and enjoyed sunshine and great ice on Oui Oui at Creag Dubh. Thanks to Nigel for the photo below.

Garry was out in Torridon over the weekend. Thanks Garry for the photos and this report: “ Liathach is absolutely blootered. Gained the main ridge by weaving around terraces on the east buttress to avoid swimming in waist deep, dry snow. As for ice, the south face has numerous falls. Most obvious is a complete Pyramid Buttress left branch with a seemingly straight forward approach. Little can be seen on the north from above with nothing visible in the vicinity of Poachers but strangely the Snotter is there all on its own.”

Tuesday 5th January 2010

Loads more snow

Danny and Andy were out working on an Alpha Mountaineering Winter Skills course on the west coast yesterday. They took a team from Warwick University Mountain Society up under the north face of the Ben.

Snow continues to be a problem for drivers across Scotland as many roads were closed today.

Earlier this week on Sunday Ian and Pete 'The Machine' made the second winter ascent of Hung, Drawn and Quartered. This VIII,8 on Am Basteir on Skye was first climbed in winter by Martin and myself in November 2008.

Monday 4th January 2010

Ski touring and road side ice

2010 has started well with continuing wintery weather. Over the last few days folk have been enjoying road side ice climbing in the North East while the North West has had some great conditions for both climbing and ski touring.

Alex and Dave were out with Adam today enjoying sunshine and great ice on Oui Oui at Creag Dubh. It was a popular venue today. Jo and Bethan were also out over the last 2 days with Kev tasting the delights of ice climbing.

Thanks to Kirsty Maguire for the photos below of Ski Touring on Quinag. Two days ago Dan sent this report: “Hi nick, Kirsty and I skiied up quinag today. With Fran, Olivia and Liz following on foot. Touring conditions in Sutherland are amazing. Some of the west facing slopes look loaded.”