March 07 Conditions

Saturday 31st March 2007

What an awesome day for scrambling on Skye. I took Amy over the Clach Glas Traverse and then over Bla Bheinn too. With blue skies, warm temperatures, no wind and fantastic dry rough gabbro rock we couldn't have asked for much more.

These two mountains are separated from the main Cuillin but are made of the same rock and have great views towards the Skye Ridge.

Now's the time to think about booking a scrambling course on Skye during April, May or June.

Friday 30th March 2007

Looks like a High pressure is moving into place over Scotland giving settled weather for at least the weekend.

I have been updating the website and there is now a Client Feedback page with testimonials from past clients.

Wednesday 28th March 2007

Another day of excellent ice climbing on Ben Nevis. I took Alan up Number 3 Gully Buttress. It started off warm in the sun but soon got cold as the cold front approached and the cloud level dropped. It was raining in the glens by 4pm and it looks like there could be some more snow tonight.

There were teams out enjoying Number 3 Gully and Green Gully. Another party were heading towards The Cascade which looked in great condition. A soloist got up early to savour Zero Gully in perfect conditions.

Tuesday 27th March 2007

Sunshine, blue sky and warm temperatures on the tops today. I took Alan up Left Twin on Aonach Mor. The ice was excellent but the snow was very soft in the sun. Take care out there under those dripping cornices.

Sunshine, blue sky and warm temperatures in the glens too! Excellent conditions on the rock as well as on the ice. Danny and I went bouldering after work in Glen Nevis up on the Scimitar boulder. Loads of great problems up there and a whole extra hour of daylight to play with.

Saturday 25th March 2007

Another excellent day of winter climbing. I took Allan and Gary up Left Branch Y Gully in Coire an Lochain. They both did some leading up the grade 1 approach slopes. They were learning to lead and belay with twin ropes.

We then went up the Left Branch of Y Gully where we found fantastic steep ice. The icicle was complete but was certainly harder than the guide book grade III at the moment.

Thanks to Donald Morris for this photo of An Teallach taken on Thursday. Looks like the North West is still hanging on to some snow even in on these warm days.

Friday 23rd March 2007

Mark and I went bouldering in Strathconon this afternoon. With blue sky, sunshine and light winds it really felt like spring.

On the higher tops there is still some snow. An excellent time of year for high ice routes and rock climbing in the glens.

Thursday 22nd March 2007

Scottish Winter Mountaineering at its best. That's exactly what today was like on Tower Ridge. Great views, good company and excellent ice and neve. I was out with Raymond today but we weren't alone as 3 other parties enjoyed the excellent climbing. The Ben was quite busy with folk out enjoying Tower Scoop, Good Friday Climb, Smith's Route, Comb Gully, Green Gully, Number 3 Gully Buttress, North Gully and others.

As the photos below show there is loads of snow and ice around and with a thaw during the day and another freeze expected tonight the ice should definitely be getting even better.

Tuesday 20th March 2007

The cold weather continued today with snow showers on Northerly winds.

Monday 19th March 2007

I was out today in Glencoe with David. We climbed Dorsal Arete which had a lot of fresh snow on it, but there was also a lot of old hard neve underneath. Jamie was out with a party climbing Ordinary Route on Central Buttress. Over on Ben Nevis, Donald went up Moonlight Gully Buttress with his party.

It was a very cold day with a gusty strong NW wind and some snow showers.

I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides today.

Thursday 15th March 2007

Today I was out with Rich bouldering in a glen half an hour drive from Inverness. After a morning of heavy showers it quickly changed to wind and sunshine and the rock was soon dry.

The temperature dropped during the day and there was a dusting of snow on the tops of the higher hills. It looks like cold Northerlies will bring more snow over the weekend.

Tuesday 13th March 2007

We had a great day out winter climbing today in Coire an t-Sneachda. Adam and Dave lead their first winter climb. We went up Aladdin's Couloir which was in great condition. We used rock, snow and ice belays enroute.

There were occasional snow showers on a strong Westerly wind.

Monday 12th March 2007

Adam and Dave were out with me today having an Introduction to Winter Climbing. We went up The Couloir in Coire an Lochain. This grade 1 gully was in good condition after a freeze last night. There was a dusting of fresh snow down to 800m this morning. The fresh snow was getting blown around on a strong SW wind and depositing fresh windslab on the NE facing slopes.

During the afternoon there were heavy snow showers with strong winds. We descended Fiacaill Ridge and had a great view of Coire an t-Sneachda and saw parties out on Fingers Ridge and the Trident Gullies.

Saturday 10th March 2007

I was out today with the Leeds Mountaineering Club teaching Winter Skills. We looked at cramponing, kicking steps, use of an ice axe, ice axe arrest and snow belays. It was windy and warm but there wasn't too much precipitation. The snow is consolidating well and there is plenty of it left.

We saw a party back off from below Chute Route. Although the corner looked thick with ice it would have been very soggy.

Thursday 8th March 2007

Coire an t-Sneachda was quite busy today with good conditions on both the gully routes and the buttresses. My photo today shows a part of Aladdin's Buttress with the distinct gully of Patey's Route and the ice fall of Aladdin's Mirror Direct both of which were climbed today. Folk were also out on the Haston Line, Central Gully, the Runnel and Goat Track Gully.

The temperature rose slightly as the front approached from the West. The strong westerly wind was moving alot of surface snow around and there should be some more snowfall during the night.

Friday 2nd March 2007

Today I was out with Patricia on the South Cluanie ridge. We climbed a grade 2 gully on excellent neve. I was working for Adventure Peaks today.

There was fresh snow down to 500m from Torridon in the West to Ben Wyvis in the East.