March 10 Conditions

Friday 26th March 2010

Yesterday on the Ben

While there has been plenty of warm wet weather across the highlands folk are still getting out climbing ice routes in the hills.

Many thanks to Di for the following report and photo. “We bailed west to the Ben and climbed Orion Direct. The first couple of pitches were pretty soggy and although the screws were pretty useless, pick placements were solid. Clag and snow started to form and fall quickly and remained with us for the majority of the day.”

Sunday 21st March 2010

Still plenty of winter routes getting done

With a clear sky last night the snow and ice that is still around is freezing well. During the day the warm south westerly airflow is certainly starting to make things feel spring like.

Kenny has been out the last 3 days with Rob working on an Alpha Mountaineering winter climbing course. They were climbing on Ben Nevis the last 2 days. Kenny mentioned yesterday that they had great icy conditions on Thompson's route and that there were folk out on Point 5, Orion Face, Astral Highway and Green Gully. Today they did Green Gully in “proper Scottish conditions; spindrift, mist and navigating off the top.”

Monday 15th March 2010

The thaw continues across the Highlands

The last few days have brought warmer weather to the highlands. It has made breaking trail especially difficult with the deep heavy thawing snow.

Ben Nevis has been a popular venue over the last week with many repeats of classics including Minus 1 and Minus 2 Gully. Many ice routes are holding up well as they have such a good base. Rob did Minus 2 yesterday and said that “the ice [was] still in very good shape”

Thursday 11th March 2010

Ben Nevis Conditions

As this occluded front passes south through Scotland it'll bring some rain but it looks like the temperatures will stay on the cool side meaning snow on the hills. Over the weekend it looks like the high pressure will reimpose itself bringing settled weather and a cold northerly airstream.

Yesterday Rob reported Alpine like conditions on the Ben. “ Did Vanishing Gully on the Ben today. Felt and looked a bit like the Modica Noury on the East Face of the Tacul. We rapped back down 1934 route but the continuation up onto Tower Ridge looked good too and would give a fine longish day, half ice, half classic mixed.”

Wednesday 10th March 2010

Rock and Ice in the Highlands

Today I was north of Ullapool at the great little bouldering venue Reiff in the Woods below Stac Pollaidh. Rich and Ian were on good form putting up 3 new boulder problems on the excellent sandstone boulders.

As well as great dry cold conditions for bouldering there has been plenty of action on the ice in the mountains. Gaz sent me this report from yesterday. “ Yesterday I was on Poachers and Salmon Leap with Baggy and Ian. Stunning day and great conditions on both routes, except for the initial curtain on Salmon Leap. All the snow below was good neve, making for an easy approach.”

Monday 8th March 2010

Fantastic sunny day across the highlands

I was out with Ciaran today in Glen Affric. We climbed the munro Toll Creagach. There is still snow down to the road at 200m although it is patchy below 600m. We had views as far as Ben Nevis, the Cairngorms and Ben Wyvis.

The rolling tops would have been good for ski touring but we were on foot today. The snow was consolidated well with a small amount of surface hoar from the sub-zero night temperatures. During the day the snow slowly thawed in the warm sunshine.

Sunday 7th March 2010

Continuing High Pressure

With the continuing high pressure over the UK we have been blessed with blue skies and sunshine, and will be for several days to come.

Aussie Nick and myself went for a wander up Glen Affric yesterday. The snow is stablising in the warmer temperatures and sunshine. However, it doesn't make it that easy for walking as we were regularly wading through deep heavy snow.

Friday 5th March 2010

Steall Falls frozen again

In the last 2 decades Steall Falls has rarely frozen enough to climb so for it to freeze twice in one winter really is a special event.

Kenny was there yesterday to take advantage of the ice and to get this photo. Kenny said “The falls are holding in well, in fact I think they are better now than when I did them in January. Incredible, I've waited 10 years to do it and it has come in twice this season. I've done it four times now!”

Tuesday 2nd March 2010

A beautiful day in the north west today

Today I was out on the hills between Torridon and Strath Carron. I climbed the munro Beinn Liath Mhor.

The snow on the main ridge was consolidated quite well. There were a couple of other folk out enjoying the sunshine and great views.