May 12 Conditions

Wednesday 30th May 2012

Three great days, four great routes

For the last 3 days I have been rock climbing in Lochaber with my good friend Mike.

On Monday we climbed Shibboleth on Slime Wall on the Buchaille in Glencoe. To paraphrase Gary Latter this is one of the best routes of this grade and length on the planet!

On Tuesday we woke to low cloud and a drop in temperature of about 10 degrees but our next objective was just below the cloud so we headed to Crocodile on Aonach Dubh. This great route has probably been on many folks tick list since the photo of Johnny Baird climbing it appeared on the front cover of the SMC guide to Scottish Rock Climbs. After Crocodile went smoothly we decided it was time for the Ben.

So after a quick stop for supplies in town we headed up into low cloud on Ben Nevis to climb the brilliant Titan's Wall. After a brew in the CIC hut the cloud lifted enough for us to see Carn Dearg Buttress. With a cold breeze and cloud blowing atmospherically across us we climbed Titan's Wall. It's huge and we thought certainly not low in the grade.

After a well earned beer and an early night in the CIC hut we finished our wee trip with an ascent of Torro today. This 4 star route is fantastic and takes you up a stunning buttress on a great mountain.

Sunday 27th May 2012

Yet another glorious day in the highlands

I had a day off today so after doing some personal admin I headed south to Geal Charn in the Monadhliath Mountains.

I had never been up this Munro and it looked like it would be a great wee cycle up Glen Markie. I then ran up into the Coire and up onto the summit.

It was a beautiful run and bike and the River Spey was a welcome place to cool off.

Saturday 26th May 2012

Another hot and sunny day in the highlands

I was out with a group of friends from London town today. We climbed A'Chralaig above Loch Cluanie. For many folk this was their first ever Munro. What amazing views we had to Ben Nevis, Skye and the Cairngorms.

A couple of the team were feeling up for the second Munro further north so we bagged that one too before heading down.

There was a cooling south easterly breeze which was very pleasant.

Friday 25th May 2012

Hot and hazy today on Skye

Steve and Nicky and I headed out to the Cuillin Outliers to do the classic traverse of Clach Glas and Blaven. It was hot and hazy.

While the sea mist clung to the Moray Firth basin over in the West we had blue skies from dawn and it was another day for factor 50 and sun hats.

Thursday 24th May 2012

Hot and sunny on Skye this week

Today I was out on Skye with Steve and Nicky. We did the round of Coire Lagan. It was hot!

Yesterday we did Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean and it was warm but it seems that each day it is getting hotter with this high pressure settling in. It's awesome! Lets hope it lasts as long as possible.

Friday 18th May 2012

Melting fast today on Skye

Today Bruce and I climbed the North West Ramp of the North West Face of Sgurr Sgumain. The day started with fresh snow down to 700m but soon the freezing level rose and the snow and ice was melting fast.

The route crosses the impressive NW face of Sgurr Sgumain and joins the West Buttress and then the South Ridge high up. We were glad of crampons on the wet icy crux.

Thursday 17th May 2012

Full winter conditions on Skye today

Bruce and I traversed Clach Glas today in very wintery conditions. We headed up Sid's Rake which is normally a grade 2 scramble but today it was a grade 1 winter climb.

After stopping to view the Impostor we descended the South Ridge and over the Bealach Tower. The South Ridge had lots of snow, rime ice and verglas on it so we were glad of our ice axes and crampons.

Wednesday 16th May 2012

Sunshine and snowflakes on Skye

Today saw a brief ridge of high pressure give us sunshine in the morning. By midday, however, there were heavy snow showers but with little wind it was not unpleasant

Bruce and I had a great day out which started with the boat in to Loch Coruisk from Elgol, we then climbed the Dubh Slabs over Sgurr Dubh Beag and Sgurr Dubh Mor.

After descending into Coire a Ghrunnda the cloud dropped and the rain started as the next low pressure moved into control.

Tuesday 15th May 2012

A wintery day in the Black Cuillin

Here on Skye we had more wintery weather with snow and graupel showers and rime and verglas in places.

Bruce and I decided to do a section of the ridge he hadn't done before so we starting at Bealach Harta and finishing on the Basteir tooth.

We traversed An Caisteal, Bruach na Frithe and climbed the Tooth via the Lota Coire route. We then descended the Kings Cave Chimney by abseil.

Monday 14th May 2012

Sunshine and showers on Skye

Today I was out with Bruce on Skye. With a forecast of snow and hail showers and strong NW wind we headed east to the Corbett Garbh Bheinn.

We climbed the Coire na Seilg Slabs but this grade 3 scramble was very short and a bit disappointing.

So we headed around the corner to the South side of Creag Druim Eadar Da Choire and climbed what we believe to be a new line at about grade 3 (scramble). This exciting line takes you up through some great slabs, corners, buttresses and some vegetation to end right on the top of Creag Druim Eadar Da Choire

Monday 7th May 2012

A Wintery Weekend in Lochaber

Over the weekend I had a great time out climbing with Steve and Kath. On Saturday they did a great job of swinging leads on Curved Ridge on Buchaille Etive Mor in Glencoe.

Yesterday we made an ascent of Tower Ridge. This was a route they both had wanted to do for a while and they hadn't expected to have to wear crampons to do it in May. Neither did I but fortunately we took them just in case and we had to put them on well below the Little Tower. I think it is the most snow I've seen that low on the ridge in May.

Both days had a light north westerly breeze and a few snow showers and the air temperature was well below average for this time of year.