February 09 Conditions

Thursday 26th February 2009

Wet and windy on the hills today

Rafael has been out the last 2 days with Ben, Martin, Richard and Tom.

They are on a winter skills course in the Northern Cairngorms. Both days have been very windy with temperatures on the summits hovering around zero.

Wednesday 25th February 2009

Fresh snow on Ben Wyvis this morning

With a cold front passing across Scotland from the NW we've had a bit more snow today on the hills.

Last weekend Pete was out with Caroline and Jon. Thanks to Caroline for her photos and Feedback.

Caroline and Jon were on a winter climbing course. They climbed several routes over the 3 days including, Hidden Chimney, Jacobs Ladder, Aladdins Couloir, Red Gully and The Couloir.

Friday 20th February 2009

Fluctuating temperatures across the highlands

After a very warm week it got slightly colder yesterday and last night. Yesterday Di noted that it “ felt like winter on the hill today. Buttresses started off being black and gradually during the day the rime slowly started to build. Ron & I started off the day with an ascent of fiacaill couloir. After getting blown up the gully we nipped around for central left hand and climbed the avoidable ice pitch in the upper section ... It was cold and breezy.”

Earlier in the week Raymond and Kaj were on a Winter Lead Climbing Course with Sam who sent me these pictures of Raymond and Kaj leading Aladdins Couloir on Wednesday.

Tuesday 17th February 2009

Report from the Northern Corries

Ron & Di returned back into Sneachda today via the 2 swimming pools en route. +5 at the bottom of the crag. The buttresses are still black and the snow is still sloppy.

Climbed The Runnel and as long as you walked on the previous tracks you were fine - stray off at your own peril. Descended down the Fiacaill Ridge. Loads of folk ascending the ridge. Do not recommend descending out the corrie on the approach track unless you are equiped with waterwings and rubber ring. Slight improvement than yesterday since it wasn't so windy.

Monday 16th February 2009

Very warm on the hill today

Di was out with Ron today on a Winter Climbing Course. She said “ News from today ... Ron & I headed into sneachda today and headed to mess of pottage. +2 at the bottom of the crag and ALL buttresses BLACK. Everything is saturated. Swam up hidden chimney and then descended back into the corrie and headed over to Aladdins Mirror Direct. Drippy as a drippy thing and decided to bail. Hope tomorrow isn't so wet. ”

I have added a new web page to my website. The new page is a Top Tips and Handy Hints page. I will be regularly adding items to this page.

Sunday 15th February 2009

Introduction to Winter Climbing Course

Matt has been out the last three days working on an Introduction to Winter Climbing Course.

The deep heavy snow was good for learning about bucket seats and buried ice axe belays.

Matt is out with Rob, Angharad and Will in the Northern Corries where they are learning as much as possible about the basics of winter climbing.

Saturday 14th February 2009

Mild and cloudy today in the Cairngorms

Amy and I went for a walk up the Glenfeshie Hills. The snow has consolidated lots with this mild southerly airstream, now it just needs a good freeze and there would be great neve conditions everywhere. We waded from the road to the summit along with plenty of ski tourers who were finding it slow going too in the heavy sticky conditions.

On the tops the cloud lowered to give some good nav practice in white out conditions and although it was only 2° C. at 1000m it felt colder with the strong southerly breeze.

Friday 13th February 2009

Photos from last weekend in the Cairngorms

Last weekend Rafael was working for me taking Justyna and David out in the Cairngorms. Thanks to David and Justyna for sending these photos of their sunny day out. Check the Feedback Page for their feedback and other testimonials. Justyna and David were looking at winter skills and glacier travel.

With a relatively good forecast this weekend it looks like it could be another busy couple of days in the hills. If you are going skiing get up early to avoid the queues. You can see how busy it is at Cairngorm Mountain Ski hill today on their webcam.

Wednesday 11th February 2009

Ice fall climbing on Beinn Udlaidh

Di has just sent me these photos from Beinn Udlaidh. This hill between Glen Orchy and Tyndrum needs plenty of snow to then melt down the cliffs and refreeze. We have certainly had loads of snow and now there is an extensive freeze giving great icefall conditions.

I think the pictures speak for themselves.

Di and Derek did Peter Pan Direct, an excellent grade 5 which climbs the right side of the back wall.

Tuesday 10th February 2009

Continuing wintery across Scotland

After a cold clear couple of days across much of Scotland it looks like it is continuing wintery through until at least next weekend.

Thanks to everyone who has sent me photos of their winter adventures over the last couple of months. Thanks to Rich, Phil, Mark and Iain for this selection from a great weekend across Scotland. Lee and Rich climbed Poachers on Liathach while Phil and Ondrej climbed Umbrella Fall also in Coire Dubh Mor. Iain and Tristan climbed Crowberry Gully on Buchaille Etive Mor. Where the ice wasn't quite as good as Torridon.

Mark flew “off Ben Wyvis ...[on Sunday] - fantastic conditions & amazing views from the top. After a full on wade through deep snow low down, the conditions were great higher up with lovely sqeaky neve & some great snow formations. The ski mountaineers were out in force and looked to be having an excellent time too.”

Monday 9th February 2009

Powder snow and blue skies in the Far NW

Amy and I went up Suilven today. After a snowy drive to Lochinver yesterday we opted to stay in the Bothy on Sunday night and climb Suilven today.

The freezing level was about 100m and there was a light Easterly breeze. Along with Ian and Neil we broke trail in powder snow the whole way and were rewarded with awesome views South to An Teallach and Skye, West to the Outer Hebrides, we could see snow on Harris, and North to Quinag and Fionaven.

Saturday 7th February 2009

Snow at sea level across Scotland and Wales report

Plenty of fresh snow fell across Scotland over the last few days. If you are heading into the hills make sure you check the Avalanche Forecast.

Baggy sent me this report from North Wales. “Best Winter since 1996. Loads of ice, neve and frozen turf, lines coming into nick that have not been there for years. In particular Cascade [in Llanberis Pass], one of the best ice routes in the UK.
Bring it on! ”

Thursday 5th February 2009

Sunshine and snow in the Glen Carron Hills

I was out for a wee walk over a couple of munros today. There was plenty of sunshine and snow on Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and Morsuig. I was rewarded with some great views towards Torridon, Slioch, the Fannichs and South to the Loch Monar hills.

There is some unstable snow on NW facing slopes after the last few days of SE winds. There was a light Northerly blowing today and with more snow forecast over the next few days watch out for loaded slopes on the Southerly aspects too. It was -3 ° C. at 900m today and a heavy snow shower came through at 3.30pm.

Wednesday 4th February 2009

Winter Tranters Round record smashed

Last weekend Dan Gay, Jon Gay and Paul Manson completed a fantastically fast winter tranters round. This round takes in 40 miles of mountain terrain and all 19 Munros around the waters of Glen Nevis. This round is normally done in Summer when the record is under 13 hours. Back in 2001 I held the record for a brief period when I completed the round in Winter in 29hrs and 23mins.

Dan has put a report on the Scottish Hill Runners Forum. They completed the round in 18 hours 59 minutes and 6 seconds. This is the first under 24hr Winter Tranters. The next challenge is an under 24hr Winter Ramseys which is an extension of Tranters by an extra 5 munros and 16 miles. Shane Ohly has already done it in 29 hours 59 minutes and plans to make a sub 24hr attempt later this month.

Monday 2nd February 2009

Minty Bouldering conditions yesterday in Applecross

At the end of last week it was surprisingly warm in the Western Highlands and with no precipitation Rich took advantage of some “ Minty bouldering conditions ” yesterday, to take a visit to the sandstone bouldering in Applecross. The photo he took of Beinn Bhan yesterday can be compared with the photo of Beinn Bhan (shown below) which I took last Thursday. The loss of snow maybe replaced over the next few days as the band of snow which is affecting the South East of the UK moves North.

Mark has just sent this report from the Northern Corries “ I was working in the Northern Corries this weekend, super windy on Saturday, 80mph+ winds but some good climbing to be had. Sunday being a better day saw Sneachda full of folks, Patey's Route looked to be in fine condition with many other good icy lines being climbed. Today has seen some new snow coming in on Easterly winds, with lots more forecast for tomorrow. ”